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Staying at the Hotel du Castellet is to live to the rhythm of the race track that held its ribbon of asphalt nearby, but green and quiet. Like the mythical track, Relais Châteaux has undergone a real facelift, as they share the same history. In 1962,Paul Ricard first inaugurates an airfield in the Var countryside, between Aubagne and Toulon, close to the charming medieval village of Castellet. Fan speed, it then creates a place of races being adopted once the drivers and the public.
Taken over in 1999 by Bernie Ecclestone, head of F1 at the time, the whole area, which covers 20,000 hectares, falls to his wife after their divorce. Ultramodernisé, the Paul Ricard Circuit revived since, throughout the year and will host the same 18 to 20 September the 79th Bol d’Or, endurance motorcycle international race that had deserted it sixteen years ago.
The airfield has given way to an international business airport, while former once reserved for runners hotel turned into a 5-star 42 rooms and suites with private terrace, the charm of Provence. During races or out period, a golf course 6 holes (soon 9), a spa with steam room, two swimming pools and fitness trails scattered in scrubland allow customers to recharge. In silence.Photo: Paule Robitaille. Moscow enjoys the largesse of his master and the Kremlin is getting a makeover.
I had not seen Moscow summer in 20 years. ” Where do you want to go ?”Asked my friend Anastasia Ulanova. I just landed the plane and it is 23 hours, but this does not prevent this pretty Muscovite, former interpreter become web designer, darken daredevil to Red Square in his Nissan Qashkai.Traffic is heavy, even at this late hour, but who cares, Nastia bypasses Mercedes trucks, double Porsche Cayenne: nothing stops. Tverskaya Street is swarming with people.
Moscow never sleeps. At midnight on a full moon tonight, Red Square shines in all its glory. For parking, now everything is legit, more car in every sense; Nastia pay their parking on the iPhone app of the Russian capital!
We are a few hundred to take pictures of us in this mythical place. The atmosphere is good child, nobody has the slightest fear. His mausoleum, Lenin ever before. I had never seen this huge square and St. Basil’s Cathedral so beautiful.
Of course I am swooning! During my last summer in Moscow, a car exploded in my street, the cafes were frequented only by blokes with jaded girls in miniskirts and ran along the walls after sunset. It was a time of unrest, the time of chaos. That was a thousand years ago, it was in 1996.
To imagine Moscow today, he must get out of the cliché of the Homo Sovieticus pale gray complexion and Novi Ruski bling the years I have known. The Muscovite 2015 has a certain style, it even has the civic soul: it can roundly scolded you because you dropped a tissue on the street; BMW X5 in his or her old Lada style, the driver always stops at pedestrian crossings; the city is connected like no other; there is even the equivalent of a stammering and Bixi bicycle paths.
The parks are manicured and municipal gardeners work night and day. In this city that was once an empire touting industrialization, which boasted of its eight-lane arteries, the current mayor is selling the idea of a city on a human scale.
The mayor Sergei Sobyanin called. It is to him and especially to his former culture minister, Sergei Kapkov, a close oligarch Roman Abramovich (the owner of the Chelsea soccer club in Great Britain), attributed this resurrection Moscow. Kapkov, inspired by what he had seen in London, Moscow wanted to set the rhythm of the rest of Europe.He resigned in March 2015. The reasons are unclear. No matter, since Moscow is on a roll and the City is a gigantic project.
At the human level, we said? The methods to achieve this, however, remain “stalinesques”. The venerable Bolshoi shines after six years of renovations valued at one billion dollars. The Moskva Hotel, a monument of Soviet architecture was demolished to be rebuilt following the original plans of 1935. It just reopened, elegant and discreet.
It has literally pulverized the Rossiya Hotel, a mastodon 1000 rooms on Red Square, to develop, we promise, a nice park. And day and night, the workers from the former Soviet republics are working to pull nearly 400 km of asphalt pavements and replacing them with concrete slabs (we say that the company that makes these slabs is very good Business …).
At the park Gorky, once asleep, I see dads skateboard who lead the stroller for their baby, I observed heartfelt province of babushkas who marvel at the beautiful gardens.Pretty girls have swapped their bike stilts and little dresses adjusted for ballerinas, jeans and a t-shirt. I meet, surprised, a hipster wildlife, lounging on huge cushions checking his webmail.
We can play bocce, water biking or yoga, and son might overshadow some time on the slopes scooter. Tired, hungry stomach, I let myself be tempted by the veranda, thetavern on the green version of Gorky Park, and I hold in one of its comfortable sofas blue and white for a hearty meal at an affordable price, helping fall of the ruble.
Gorky Park to the former Red October chocolate factory, I take what was a large Soviet four-lane boulevard, along the Moscow River, transformed into pleasant walkway. Along the way, I pass by the Museum of New Tretyakov and Muzéon where I travel, amused, cemetery statues and Soviet monuments like the ruins of ancient Rome.
On the island that housed the chocolate factory, the buildings have been converted into art galleries, cafes and cheerful club dance. And on top of Strelka Institute, a center of design and the Moscow Urban Development, offers a nice terrace where I sip chardonnay from southern Russia enjoying the Christ the Savior Cathedral. At vespers on this beautiful Saturday evening, I return home Nastia wandering the sound of bells in this city of a thousand churches.
Strelka has inspired the renovation of a series of now revamped Soviet factories. You have to see Artplay, Winezavod and Flakon, located outside the center: these are the Socialist-Realism temples transformed into villages of artists. One feels the creative buzz of a stylish and multilingual youth who still had the layer buttocks during the collapse of the Soviet Union, there are already a quarter century.
In the Moscow cafes, the war seems far away in Ukraine. Severe reign of Putin and the fall of the ruble, we’d rather not think about it … After all, the Muscovite has always lived fully, because who knows what tomorrow will bring?
On a beautiful night, I walk on the dock of Sofinskaya, I admire the stunning views of the Kremlin on the other side of the river. It is a magical moment, there is nobody.And then, suddenly, I realize that this is where Boris Niemtsov, the leader of the opposition, was shot at close range last spring. I leave troubled. “Moscow is an island, says my friend, the journalist Sergei Parkhomenko and néodissident. Here, it is Europe, but the nature of this country is never far away.”
Renaissance Gourmet
Gone are the days of the Soviet restaurant where, from a dozen pages of a menu, a disillusioned server offered you a puny chicken leg in Kiev or Beef Stroganoff old days.Gone are also the days when you paid the same server in which an unknown juice sometimes swam a few critters (lasting memories). Russia is experiencing a renaissance of gastronomy, and this for all budgets, and Moscow is the epicenter. The Muscovite discovers an epicurean curiosity. Fashion is for local products and microbreweries.
The restaurant Lavkalavka, for example, is the standard bearer of a cooperative of small farmers. It offers a creative and surprising Russian table. The menu even tells you how you have your farmer juicy filet mignon, your carefully prepared quail or venison on a bed of pasta rye. You will taste a variety of impressive Russian wines. And a nice passionate server you may bring to taste fine liquors Berry. In Moscow restaurants, one of the friendly staff, often in their twenties can serve you in English with extreme kindness.
A little earlier, when the gleaming Petrovka becomes Karetnyi Ryad, restaurantDelicatessen, chief Ivan Shihkin, who likes to purchase from farmers in Lavkalavka, offer him an even broke menu. Because Moscow has its chiefs stars;plus Ivan Shihkin, fashion is at Alexei Zimin (Dom 12 and stew) and Vladimir Mukhin (White Rabbit), to name a few.
For smaller budgets, there are cafes and popular restaurants, but very enjoyable. In the center of Moscow buildings of the inner courtyards of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, there was not so long dilapidated regained their mystical beauty.On entering it, we discover nice restaurants and terraces. A customer unpretentious people places. I think, among others, to Odessa Mama, serving tasty Jewish cuisine, and Dom 12, which offers an interesting choice of grills.
And since Moscow never sleeps at the center of the beautiful Hermitage Park on the flowers Boulevard (Tvetnoy Boulevard), there is the 3205 Veranda, open all night, frequented by a young, bohemian crowd.
Muscovites have perched a little terraces to enjoy throughout the summer and until the last days of autumn. At the restaurant Carlson, on the roof of a building, we admire the riverboats on the Moscow Ballet as a gigantic fireflies, and, wrapped in warm blankets, courtesy of the house.
And to experience canteen, there is one located under the arches of the magnificent monastery Visokopetrovski at 28/2, Petrovka street in the center of the city. In a setting could not be more Russian, traditional food is served are made with products of the monasteries surrounding countryside. The best value for money.
